A Magical Christmas Weekend in Old Quebec City
Medieval architecture: ✅
Old World, European Feel: ✅
Cold and Snow: ✅
German-style Christmas markets: ✅
Primary spoken language that's not English: ✅
Delicious, regional cuisine: ✅
Miserable Overnight flight to get there: ❌
My better half and I are not exactly what you'd call "Christmas" people. Growing up, my Mom generally went all-out during Christmas season and I have fond memories of Christmas' past; however, these days it's all kind of at arms-length for me without kids in the house anymore. Over the years, rampant over-commercialization, extending Christmas into the summer months, and the general obligatory nature of it all - I've placed the holiday season firmly into the "meh" category these days. What I most enjoy now about this time of year are the efforts of OTHERS...it's mostly just there in the background for the last - seemingly FOUR TO FIVE months of the year.
This year, however, we've gone back to our roots and found ourselves in New England for the holiday season. Despite our usual sentiment, we're making a run at embracing the yuletide spirit...so what better way to go all-in on Christmas than a road trip up the the Great White North...and there's no place quite like Old Quebec City to immerse oneself in the joy and charm of Christmas!
It's about a six hour drive from Boston up through New Hampshire and Franconia Notch, into Northern Vermont, then up to Quebec City....which is right about at the driving cut-off for us on a weekend excursion.
We arrived in the late afternoon on Friday; driving through the old walled city gates, this historical gem of a city - dressed in its holiday best - literally felt like stepping into a Christmas card! We first got settled into the Hôtel Champlain Vieux Québec - a lovely, smaller boutique-type property just steps from the heart of the city center and Christmas markets. From there we bundled up and headed out into the crisp, December night to get a feel for the city and a belly full of whatever deliciousness she had to offer and Oh BOY, Old Quebec did not disappoint on either account!
After a quick survey of the Christmas markets, we warmed up with some pre-dinner drinks at Pub D'Orsay, then headed over to our dinner reservation at Chez Temporel, a lovely little bistro on Rue Couillard that's been in business there for 50 years.
Unfortunately, they were out of their signature dish - the octopus - so I had a traditional braised beef cheek dish with parsnip puree, blackcurrant beet paste, and a beef reduction that was phenomenal, despite some bizarre plating - Look I'm an old guy and I just prefer my food more in the middle of the plate....OK? 🤪
Saturday morning, we started our day with a nice breakfast in the street-side solarium of the hotel, then headed to the Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral, North America's first Catholic cathedral north of Mexico, dating from 1647. While touring the interior (which was beautiful), I lit candles for my Dad and Michele's mom, then we got an opportunity to go through the Holy Door. In Catholic theology, holy doors symbolize a passage between what one leaves behind to what one wishes to walk forward with in life. There are six other such Doors around the world: four in Rome, one in Spain and one in France. They are generally sealed, only open in holy years...but as it so happens, this particular Holy door just opened on December 8th! We definitely seem to have a knack for randomly stumbling upon Catholic festivals and events in our travels!
Next we headed to Terrasse Dufferin, overlooking the majestic St. Lawrence River and adjacent to the iconic Château Frontenac. Here I went into the small kiosk and purchased a ticket for Glissades Au 1884 - the historic, three lane toboggan hill that propels thrill seekers down the run at over 70 kilometers per hour! I was the only one on our group of three dumb enough to try this.
After scaring myself senseless, we braved the icy city stairs down to Quartier Petit Champlain, with its cobblestone streets and quaint boutiques, for a shopping experience like no other. The area, adorned with festive decorations, made for a delightful stroll. Each shop, from chic boutiques to charming souvenir stores, held treasures just waiting to be discovered.
We popped in a bar for some poutine, beer, and French onion soup before heading onward to Place Royale - the spot where Quebec was founded in 1608. We were lucky enough to catch a performance of carolers in the beautiful, historic square.
Rather than brave the icy steps a second time, hopped on the funicular to head back up to the walled city and hit the Christmas Markets. The short but scenic journey between the Upper and Lower Towns provided great views of the St. Lawrence River and the city's historic architecture. It's a convenient and charming way to navigate the chilly and hilly streets of Old Quebec.
The Christmas markets of Old Quebec are a spectacle of lights, sounds, and scents. Each stall, twinkling under the fairy lights, offers unique crafts and treats. Local artisans showcase their handiwork, perfect for finding that special gift. The air is filled with the aroma of spiced cider and fresh baked goods, creating an atmosphere of warmth and cheer in an otherwise frozen city.
After further strolling and shopping, we stopped for pre-dinner drinks at a local pub, then had dinner at Brasserie Les Mordus, in the Clarendon Hotel, where I had a beautiful sous-vide prepared pork chop, and Michele had a salmon dish that she said was the best she'd ever had in her life!
After dinner, more shopping, a nightcap, then back to the hotel to rest up for our journey home Sunday.
Old Quebec City, with its enchanting Christmas markets, thrilling toboggan ride, charming shopping streets, spiritual landmarks, convenient funicular, and delicious cuisine, provided a perfect backdrop for a magical Christmas weekend. For us it was a holiday destination that truly captured the essence of the holiday season, and definitely left us wanting more....but we will save our next visit for a warmer time of year....